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For completeness, fully charged condition of my main battery is 8.22V (from +ve (on aerial end) to -ve centre terminal) with 5.81V from =ve to data -ve terminal (end furtherest away from aerial). There is 0.00V between the two -ve terminals, connected either polarity on the multimeter - this will be what the electronic modules inside the battery case are doing, amongst other things. So they are meant to be fully isolated. As a check I get 840,000 ohms either direction across these terminals - which is about the same as licking your skin across 1cm so it is well insulated.

PS: The broken battery spec link above is:
http://au.farnell.com/panasonic/vl1220- ... L1220-1VCE

It turns out that if you edit any post in this forum it will break any links over a certain link, AND any internal links to other posts on this site, anybody here considered converting to SMF which just works no drama? http://www.simplemachines.org/community/index.php

is meant to be ...PPS: It turns out that if you edit any post in this forum it will break any links over a certain length, AND...

I have the same problem with my 296 and have verified that the clock battery must be continually charged in order for the unit to keep time correctly. What I am wondering is whether keeping the unit on charge all the time will kill the MAIN battery? Anyone??

So has anyone found a battery with the tabs on them already? I bought two batteries from apex battery and tried soldering the stock tabs on. The first battery popped pretty quick. I have tried to keep the second one as cool as possible, but that isn't so handy when trying to solder.

Suggestions? I'd rather just buy a battery with the tabs to start with if something is available.

Was there a problem reading the posts further up with this info in it and about 5 photos of the bloody battery with tabs? I guess you can lead a person to the info but can't make them look at it, or was that about horses & water or whatever?

I printed out the very informative discussion by VinceS re replacing the internal battery. My beloved 276C has now started showing the symptoms of loosing its date when not in use.
I unscrewed the 8 small screws on the back cover. There is no screw ring on the BNC connector AFAICS!
Garmin here replaced the back cover under warranttee when one of the battery contacts broke off and looks like the techie dod not bother to screw the ring back on.

Short of brute force and ignorance, how do I split the back cover off from the cover surrounding the LCD screen?

G'day George,

Did you read this post?: viewtopic.php?f=4&t=7664

If the bayonet plug retaining ring is missing you should be inside by now! The rubber does stick pretty good but cautious force at the screw locations should soon get you sorted.

As a follow up to the above battery repair epistle I have just returned from a few days and 3,000km in NZ, and the 276C GPS is running as good as a brand new one after the battery(ies) revival. It says in the menu it gets the usual range of 8 - 12 hours use off the bike depending on screen brightness. Probably I have in practice used it off power for about 5 hours on brightest setting without getting a power saving dim so it is at least functional to the point that it stays out of my way, as all good tech should! Once, it seems, we have overcome the manufacturer's unwittingly designed in defects!

Hi Vince,
Tx for your reply and pointing me at that topic. I had not seen that one.

Will try and get it open.
This whole thing smacks of planned obsolescence by our dear friends Garmim. It is ridiculous that they do not expect the units to be in use beyond the life of a Nicad battery!
Geprge

Hi, I'm working on a 296, trying to replace the internal battery. I have followed the previous posts and pictures, Thanks, this has been a big help.

But, now that I am inside and got the foil lifted, the little phillips head screws are not cooperating. They are so tight that my #0 screwdriver is not up to the task, even with griping the ribbed shaft with pliers for extra leverage. Phillips bit just rotates out of the head , in spite of pushing in as hard as I dare. I don't think I can apply any more pressure without danger of deforming the shoulders of the screw head socket.

Any suggestions?

sometimes it will help to turn the screw a very very very litlle bit tighter before you turn it loose.
but be carefull.

You can't grap the screwhead with litlle wire cutter?

Had the same problem on my 5yr old 276C. I guess plastic dries out and shrinks with time and it makes screws hard to remove. You need a proper size screwdriver first. Then applying firm pressure down, wiggle it back a forth a bit using a pair of pliers on the screwdriver shaft. Screws will get loose eventually. Just make sure you won't strip them.